Colombo

In order to get my Laptop back, I had a little trip to the capital of Sri Lanka.
In the older part you find the remainders of the colonial powers Portugal, Netherlands and Great Britain everywhere. But the lofty old buildings are outshone by huge skyscapers and modern architecture. The port city is in a building frenzy.
I myself got a bit in a shopping frenzy on my way back when I passed some silk shops and a place that sold turtle-T-shirts 😉
To all the “tailors” amongst you: I will very likely go back, so place your orders! 😉
I also passed the office of the NGO “center for womens research” (http://cenwor.lk), as I got curious about the overall situation of gender equality in this country but unfortunatelly it was closed.

Wesak

Heute, am Vollmondtag im Mai, wurde das nächste wichtige Fest der Buddhisten gefeiert. Eigentlich DAS wichtigste. Das Wesak (oder Vesak) Vollmondfest ist quasi 3 in one. Es erinnert an Buddha (damals noch Prinz Siddhartha) Geburt, seine Erleuchtung und seinen Tod. Am Vortag werden die Lampen gebastelt, die Ihr auf den Fotos sehen könnt und die dann an Wesak an jeder Ecke in den Farben des Buddhismus, blau, rot, grün und gelb leuchten.

Ich habe die Familie auch mit in den Tempel begleitet (als Einzige nicht in weiß).Eigentlich wird dort dann für längere Zeit meditiert aber es gab diesmal den Schnelldurchlauf mit ein paar Gebeten, den Ritualen (z.B. den heiligen Ficusbaum gießen, unter dem Buddha die Erleuchtung erfahren hat) und einem kurzen Dorfklatsch. Man versicherte mir, daß normalerweise überall viel mehr los sei und auch die Straßen (noch) mehr beleuchtet sind. Jetzt ist aber vieles aus Angst reduziert, die Leute bleiben eher zuhause.

“Life is a struggle”

I am hearing Thushan utter this sentence occasionally since I had arrived here.
You would think this guy is past the struggeling. His name is probably the most mentioned name in Sri Lanka travel guide books. In the sea turtle world it is known by everyone anyway. His Turtle Conservation Project turned turtle egg poachers into tourist guides, gave whole villages alternative livelihoods and was the driving force behind the establishment of the Rakawa sanctuary (a protected area, similar to a national park). He won one award after the other and during peak times, the project employed 108 people.
So isn’t it time to lean back and watch the fruits of your work grow?
That turns out to be exactely the problem. Apart from the fact that guys like Thushan have troubles to keep their feet still, there doesn’t seem to be anybody suitable to take his place (or at least some of it). Somebody who combines the general love for nature and the enthusiasm for fieldwork with a profound scientific groundwork and interest in high quality research. Somebody who is able to see nature AND the people and is willing to go the extremly energy-sapping path of compromising between the two.
And there is still so much to do!

Meanwhile Thushans wife is a highly appreciated pulmonologist. She is working in a hospital. Several hospitals that is to say. Not every hospital in Sri Lanka has a chest-department. And not every chest-department has a pulmonologist. So she is obliged to work in all of them for a certain period of time (usually one year). Even if this hospital is at the other end of the island, hours away from her home and family.
In the end, she is the one who makes sure of a reliable income for the family. Because as successful and recognized Thushans work may be, it always relies on another approved proposal for funds or other external donations.

Sometimes you can see how tired the both of them are. Or how things of the day are still buzzing in their head when they come home in the evening. But then there are the kids. Three of them. One still a toddler and one with what would be considered special needs in Germany. And they come with all the troubles kids come with: Bad grades in school, sibling rivalry, effervescing emotions, the demand to explore and try out while still being so vulnerable and in need of protection. And a sheer endless thirst for activity in a world that puts more and more limits to their free moving space.
After a day of work it is impossible to meet their needs for affection, attention and testing their limits without neglecting your own.  
At least there is a grandma to look after them and the house during the day. But grandmas don’t grow younger with time, do they? …

And so they struggle. To get it kind of done, to keep some kind of balance.
What to tell Thushan? To let go of the work of his lifetime? To ask his wife to give up her job, in a country where gender equality still is a foreign concept to many? To send the kids to a boarding school for a while, to find a moment to breath and recover?
To hang in there, everything will be fine?
Well, it won’t.
Life is a struggle.


P.S. I was writing this entry, when the news of the bomb attacks arrived. The first notion was, not to put it up as this wasn’t fitting. But when you think about it, it fits quite well, doesn’t it?

Mulkirigala

In der Naehe von Rekawa, wo ich die letzte Woche (ohne Internet) verbracht habe, liegt das aelteste buddhistische Kloster im Sueden Sri Lankas.
Es entstand wahrscheinlich 200 v.Chr. und ist in und an riesige Felsen gebaut.

Eingang zu einer der Felsenhoehlen

7 Hoehlen sind in den Felsen gehauen und in jeder liegt eine Buddhastatue, von knallbunter Malerei umgeben. Um dahin zu kommen, muss man allerdings eine rechte Klettertour auf sich nehmen:

Ja, die oberen Stufen laufen quer!

Zum Glueck sind die Hoehlen auf verschiedene Ebenen verteilt 😉
Und dann kann man Buddha beim Schlafen zuschauen:

Die Handhaltung und die Lage der Fuesse entscheidet darueber ob das Buddhaabbild das eines schlafenden Buddhas oder eines toten Buddhas darstellt.

Eingerahmt von komplett mit ornamentaler Malerei bedeckten Waenden, deren intensive Farben wohl immernoch die urspruenglichen sind.

Ganz oben auf dem letzten Felsen angekommen, hat man dann einen tollen Blick ueber die gesamte Umgebung. Viele sagen das waere tatsaechlich der beste Ort um zu meditieren und Gelassenheit, Gleichmut und Klarheit zu erlangen.
Naja. Auch wenn der Ausblick sicher im Orginal viel beeindruckender ist als auf diesem Foto, der beste Ort dafuer waere es erst, wenn man von hier aus das Meer sehen koennte. 😉